Have you noticed tiny black dots during the process of peeling potatoes? These are traces of the activity of the wireworm larva. Adult specimens of the pest do not encroach on our potatoes, but its innumerable offspring remain in the soil for four years and all this period feeds on our crop.
In the article, I will share my experience on how to quickly and easily get rid of wireworms in the garden.
A rare landlord did not encounter this annoying insect on a potato field. Of course, there are siderites against wireworms – peas, phacelia, and mustard. I noticed that with their regular cultivation, the pest leaves the site over time.
But this method of controlling wireworm has two serious drawbacks:
- It requires a substantial investment of labor.
- Sideral plants occupy an area that can be used for planting other useful vegetable and green crops.
In order to remove the wireworm from the garden, it is advisable to use not a single measure, but a number of measures. In combination, they give an excellent effect.
How to deal with wireworms: 17 proven ways
Method number 1. Regular removal of all weeds from the garden.
This is especially true for wheatgrass, to which the wireworm has a strong weakness. Thus, we remove the main food sources of the pest.
Do not forget to remove ALL plant residues (including small tubers) from the site after the final harvest of the potato crop.
Method number 2. Systematic liming of garden soil.
To do this, lime is distributed every 2-3 years on the surface of the earth. Or
Method number 5. Wood ash.
Do not skimp on pouring this miraculous fertilizer into planting grooves and pits, because there will be no big sense from a tablespoon of ash on the plant.
Method number 6. Hull of onions.
She also needs to be strewed with a generous hand. But if the weather is windy on the day of planting, you will have to refuse this means from the wireworm – the husk will simply scatter all over the potato field.
As an alternative, pre-planting treatment of tubers in onion broth or infusion can be carried out. This will ensure the prevention of a wide range of diseases of potatoes, as well as scare away a dangerous pest.
Method number 7. Watering the wells with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate.
If you plant some potatoes, you can easily use this recommendation. In addition, in the middle of spring usually, there is still no shortage of water.
Method number 8. Lures from potato tubers and other root crops, cut into pieces, and dug into the ground to a depth of 5 to 10 centimeters.
According to many potato growers, this is a very effective way to deal with wireworms.
There is only one BUT: it is laborious and poorly suited for gardeners who grow potatoes in large areas.
Method number 9. A variety of traps for the wireworm beetle.
During the summer period, the female of this pest lays about two hundred eggs. Therefore, timely catching a wretch, you will prevent the appearance of a huge number of voracious larvae that destroy our crop.
Method number 10. Planting beans or beans together with potatoes (in the same hole) or in aisles.
There are two small nuances here:
- If you are cultivating early ripe varieties of potatoes that are harvested in the beginning or middle of July, you should not count on the harvest of beans or beans – they simply will not have time to ripen by this time
- Simultaneous planting of potato tubers and legumes does not make much sense since the seeds of beans and beans sown in cold soil show low germination.
So if you still want to experience this option of getting rid of wireworms in the garden, sow bean seeds two to three weeks after planting the potato itself.
Method number 11. Digging the site in late autumn, so that the larvae of the pest find themselves on the surface of the soil and die under the first winter frost.
This tip is easy to implement if autumn is dry. But if you live in the same rainy region as me, you have to abandon the late-autumn digging of the site.
Method number 12. Calendula and marigolds planted along the edge of potato plantings.
These phytosanitary plants can generally be found across the garden – you will soon notice that the total number of pests in the area has decreased markedly. And your efforts in this direction were equal to zero!
But if you plant a lot of potatoes, this method is unlikely to be useful to you.
Method number 13. The use of special drugs from wireworm.
Despite all the effectiveness, their effect is short-lived. One season you will be glad that you got rid of the wireworm so successfully, and next year the pest will return to the site as if nothing had happened.
Therefore, I do not recommend using chemical poisons to expel beetles from the site – rather you will poison yourself than destroy the pest.
Well, if you still decide on an experiment, try a drug called Provotox. It is placed in landing holes to destroy the wireworm beetle larvae. Norm – 40 grams of granules per 10 square meters of landings.
Method number 14. Add a handful of salt to each well.
It is quite possible that salt poses some danger to the pest, but how will it affect the yield of potatoes? I cannot give a definite answer to this question.
But the agronomists have long found out that irrigation with salt water is far from useful for all cultures. Therefore, I do not think that there is a need to take risks, I use this dubious method.
Method number 15. The use of siderites from wireworm – peas, phacelia, or mustard.
I want to draw your special attention to the last of the mentioned side plants. Mustard is remarkable for its early maturity, so it is sown immediately after harvesting potatoes, even in mid-August.
Method number 16. Adding mustard powder to the hole when planting potatoes.
If the wireworm hates mustard so much, it would be logical to assume that he is also not enthusiastic about its smell near the place of feeding. Moreover, mustard is a completely natural insecticide and will not harm the human body. A pinch of ground hot red pepper can also be added to the powder.
It is verified that such a thermonuclear mixture will correctly and reliably keep voracious wireworm larvae at a distance from potato beds.
Method number 17. Compliance with the cultural revolution.
The fact is that the digestive system of the wireworm adapts well to one type of feed. Therefore, with proper use of crop rotation, the larvae lose their main source of food and die from starvation.
I think you already realized that using only one method is unrealistic to get rid of wireworms in the garden. However, with the combined use of 3-5 of them (with the exception of chemicals), you will minimize the damage from the activity of this pest in the area. add a handful of deoxidant to each hole when planting potatoes.
Method number 3. The introduction of dolomite flour, naphthalene, ammonium nitrate for autumn digging.
Please note that lime and dolomite are not recommended to be applied simultaneously with manure, urea, superphosphate, ammonium sulfate, and ammonium nitrate.
It is important that at least 2-3 months elapse between the addition of these substances to the garden earth.
Method number 4. The introduction into the wells of crushed eggshells.