In the middle of summer, black spots sometimes appear on peppers, which quickly spread and cover the entire surface of the fruit.
Pepper rots on a bush. A variety of causes cause trouble – from infectious diseases to adverse weather conditions.
One of the most dangerous diseases causing rotting of peppers is alternariosis (dry spotting). Moreover, the infection affects all plants of the nightshade family – not only peppers, but also eggplant, tomatoes, and potatoes.
Although alternariosis does not spare either seedlings or adult pepper plants, in most cases it develops in the second half of the growing cycle.
The pathogen affects all aerial parts of the pepper. At first, small brown spots are formed on the lower leaves, but after a short time, they spread to the upper tier of the bush. Spots quickly grow in size and merge, which provokes a massive fall of foliage on plants.
On fruits, dry spotting usually begins to develop from the area of the peduncle. In this place, oval weeping spots appear, which gradually blacken and tumble inward. With increased humidity, the damaged areas are also overgrown with a whitish, later velvety, dirty-brown coating. At the last stage, the affected fruits are simply mummified.
Keep in mind that even with the appearance of the slightest signs of disease on the skin of the fruit, the mycelium of the fungus penetrates inside, where it spreads rapidly. Therefore, seeds from such plants are strictly prohibited.
It is also important to know that dry spotting on pepper fruits can occur even when they are already removed from the bush!
During sporulation, the pathogen is easily spread over the site using wind and rainfall. This is facilitated by hot summer weather, interspersed with heavy rains.
The pathogen also remains on the plant debris, so after harvesting, they must be completely removed from the site.
Pepper rots also due to anthracnose. At the last stages of ripening, dark brown, uneven, slightly depressed spots with numerous black dots appear on the fruits. By the end of the growing season, the causative agent of the disease forms black sclerotia, which winter on plant tops.
Anthracnose on peppers is treated the same way as on cucumber.
Good prevention of alternariosis and anthracnose is crop rotation and the use of mixed plantings.
To combat alternariosis on pepper, various fungicides are used:
- Bordeaux liquid – one percent solution;
- copper oxychloride – 50 grams per 10 liters of water;
- tattu – 60 milliliters per 10 liters of water.
With a high infectious background, it is allowed to carry out up to 4 treatments per season with a frequency of 7-14 days. But the last spraying is done no later than three weeks before the start of harvesting.
Pepper rots on a bush in hot weather when using the wrong watering regime.
Unlike tomatoes, pepper does not like direct sunlight – it grows better in diffused light. For this reason, experienced gardeners whiten polycarbonate or glass in a greenhouse with a crop.
The ideal temperature for pepper in the second half of the growing season is + 20 … 25 degrees. If the temperature rises to +32 … 34 degrees and above (and in July-August, this often happens even in the middle zone of Russia), and when watering with cool water, the fruits are often affected by vertebral decay.
As a result of this, tiny indented spots are formed on them, which then begin to expand and change color to brown. In general, the trouble affects green peppers and causes their accelerated ripening. But at the same time, they become completely inedible.
In order to prevent the appearance of vertex rot on a bed of peppers, in hot periods, plants are often watered and in small portions with water at temperatures from +20 to +22 degrees. Also, do not get carried away with nitrogen fertilizers, since excess nitrogen is one of the main causes of the disease.
Remember that the culture does not tolerate stagnation of water in the root of the neck. Watering should be regular, but not excessive.
If you notice signs of this non-communicable disease on pepper, immediately spray the bushes with a solution of calcium nitrate. To prepare it on a watering can, add a tablespoon of fertilizer and carefully process the plants from the garden sprayer. Do the second non-root top dressing with the same composition about a week after the first.
It is also useful to regularly add wood ash at intervals of between rows of 50-100 grams per meter.